DeCicco’s: Craft Beer pairings for the holidays

DeCicco’s: Craft Beer pairings for the holidays: We asked craft beer expert Brendon O’Brien, of DeCicco’s Armonk, for a quick lesson on craft beer and we got that and a whole lot more. Here’s what we’re drinking (and eating) for the holidays, New Years Eve and the Superbowl. 

How did you become a craft beer expert?

It’s a labor of love. I was exposed to some of the early founders of the craft beer movement when I was pretty young. Namely Sierra Nevada. After having those beers with flavor and character, there was no turning back to watery, over-carbonated beers. I was smitten, and being naturally inquisitive, I wanted to learn everything I could about them. I spent the next 15 years trying every different beer I could get my hands on and learning about the styles, the breweries and all the raw ingredients that went into these majestic suds. I started brewing my own beer in college to get hands-on experience with the ingredients and gain a greater respect for the process. My roommates sure didn’t mind either. I had worked as a Wine Buyer and Manager of several boutique wine stores for many years after college and really expanded my palate awareness and knack for what makes a great food and beverage pairing. After that I went on to work at the Peekskill Brewery as a beer specialist in their taproom and got some hands on training with the amazing brewers that work there. I always believed that you should love what you do, so I made a hobby into a career.

How many types of beer do you stock at DeCiccos?

Although I haven’t done an exact count very recently, we have over 2000 bottle selections from all over the world with more being added every week. There is literally something for everyone. In our bar we feature 28 craft beers on draft and those rotate daily. We have an emphasis on local, seasonal and rare selections.

What are the most popular craft beers?

India Pale Ales are still the biggest sellers in the craft beer world. People love the giant citrusy and piney aromas and flavors of IPA. We offer at least 6 IPAs at any given time on draft and they fly out of here. The other style that is really taking off is Sour & Wild ales. There are a bevy of ways to create these kinds of beers, but their rustic and tart nature make them so refreshing, that I am genuinely happy that a broader audience is catching on to them. They have been traditionally made in countries like Belgium and Germany for a long time and it’s nice to see them gain the respect they deserve in the states. Tilquin Gueuze is one of my favorites.

Can you give us a quick Craft Beer for Dummies lesson?

As I mentioned the most popular style is without a doubt IPAs. Characterized by their generous use of hops for aroma, flavor and bitterness. Other popular styles include stouts which are dominated by dark, roasty notes of coffee and cocoa. These stouts gain their attributes from malted barley that is kilned to a higher degree, much like roasted coffee beans. Seasonal offerings usually rely on ingredients on hand or a compliment to the season’s weather: pumpkins and freshly harvested hops in the fall; pie spice, spruce and heavier malt driven beers in the winter.

The many styles of beer are ultimately characterized by the yeast used to ferment them; the types of malt used to create color, flavor, fermentables and body; the hops which add aroma, flavor and bitterness; and the water which is the basis for any great beer. These ingredients used in different combinations are what define beer styles- by color, bitterness, alcohol and character.

What’s a winter brew all about?

Winter beers tend to have a heavier body and sometimes more alcohol. Something to warm you up. A lot of breweries incorporate spices such as cinnamon in their winter and holiday brews. I really enjoy the Belgian takes on winter ales like De Dolle Still Nacht with its malty, yet mellow presence. St. Bernardus, another great Belgian brewery, makes a Christmas ale that I age in my beer cellar for future winters. This beer is bursting with flavor and always makes me smile.

What do you consider when you pair beer with food?

It’s the same thing as when pairing with any fine beverage, you’re looking for flavors that either work in unison because they are similar or offer a great contrast that works.  People shy away from accepting acidity in their beverages, but it really is one of the most important aspects of some pairings. For instance, the way a tart saison (like Crooked Stave Surette) plays off a food like salmon. The saison’s rustic character is great with a flavorful fish like salmon and the acidity cuts through the fat of the fish, making for a really spot on pairing that is also refreshing.

Okay, let’s get into some pairings. Here’s some finger food for a holiday cocktail party:

Shrimp cocktail with a traditional horseradish sauce:

A nice delicate beer will enhance the experience with shrimp. Reach for a Captain Lawrence Kolsch from our local friends and enjoy.

Baked oysters with a wild mushroom ragout – recipe here:

The classic pairing is oysters and stout. I would take it one step further and use an oyster stout. Where oysters are actually used in the brewing process. I enjoy the Italian brewery Del Borgo’s Perle ai Porci.

Spicy Pecans coated with cayenne pepper, paprika, salt, and sugar:

One of my favorite bar snacks!  A brown ale will play off the nutty qualities very nicely. Avery Ellie’s Brown is one of my go-to camping beers and I will use it for this pairing as well.

Mini Potato Latkes with gravlax, crème fraiche and caviar:

This is where I would turn to a highly effervescent sour style beer. The Bruery Rueze is an amazing beer worthy of this decadent snack.

Pair some beers for a three chili New Year’s Eve Party:

Michael Chiarello’s Green Duck Chili with cilantro, lime juice and scallions – recipe here:

This is where I would reach for an IPA. The citrus qualities of certain IPAs are ideal for Thai inspired dishes. A Bell’s Two Hearted Ale would work quite well.

Venison Chili spiced with paprika, cumin, coriander, coffee and molasses – recipe here: 

I like medium bodied Belgian style ales with Venison. Their more robust malt flavor compliments gamey meats. An Ommegang Abbey Ale or Allagash Dubbel would suit this well.

Bobby Flay’s Red Beef Chili sautéed in beer, chocolate, maple syrup and topped with a cumin crema – recipe here:

Never underestimate the power of chocolate and beef!  We have a collaboration beer we made with Evil Twin called Imperial Biscotti Break DeCicco Version. It’s an imperial stout brewed with hazelnuts, chili peppers, vanilla and espresso. Anyone who tried this pairing would have their minds blown!

How about three styles of wings for a Super Bowl party:

Buffalo Chicken Wings with celery salt and crumbled blue cheese.

The classic pairing – a nice refreshing lager, something like Jack’s Abby Jabby Brau. It will beat the heat and goes down easy.

Five Alarm Wings with cayenne and habanero hot sauce.

I like to boost up the malt a little bit with spicier wings like a nice amber or maltier pale ale. One of my favorites is Firestone Walker DBA, a pale ale made in the English style. A lot of people go right to an IPA for anything spicy, where it definitely has its place- however with wings the bitterness of an IPA sometimes doesn’t meld well with the hot sauce flavor.

Old Bay Wings with lemon and Old Bay seasoning.

ha! Well, the Flying Dog Dead Rise that we featured at our cooking demo would definitely be a good pairing. A refreshing blond body brewed with Old Bay seasoning. How do you not pair these together?

DeCicco’s Armonk, 17 Maple Ave., Armonk, 914.499.1100; www.deciccos.com)