We Finally Snag a Table at Bocuse

We Finally Snag a Table at Bocuse

Getting a table at Bocuse, The Culinary Institute of America’s French flagship restaurant that is named after legendary French chef and pioneer of nouvelle cuisine Paul Bocuse is not an easy task. Yet, we managed to find more innovative ways to screw up a special occasion by failing to snag a table there than most. From the traditional method of being too late to the less tried and true, being too early. Let me explain…

It was last August, when with all intentions of timing their 60 day window perfectly, we called a day late and they were already sold out. Five days later, I decided to check again as it was hard to believe that they  sold out an entire evening in 24 hours – 60 days in advance. Once again, they were sold out. So, I called and spoke with the head of communications and marketing for the CIA restaurants and she informed me that Open Table had posted their new supply of tables two days late – so I actually was a day early. And then on my second try, in fact they were sold out, so I was both too early and too late – but not at the same time.

The good news was she talked us into a dinner at American Bounty, which we loved and reviewed last year, and which we will tell you more about at the end of this review.

Anyway, Bocuse was worth the wait and now with all four CIA restaurants under our belt, we think we finally have the lay of the land up in Hyde Park.

Let’s start with the room which is where all CIA restaurants begin. Each room is more grand than the next and short of Peter Kelly’s X2O in Yonkers, CIA’s eateries would rank two through four on my list of the greatest rooms in Westchester and the mid-Hudson valley. While American Bounty has that historic Americana appeal, and Caterina di Medici has the mediterranean look down, Bocuse with its white and black striped banquettes and modern profile leather chairs has all the spare modernist touches of a well plated dish of nouvelle cuisine.

Finally, The Food

Bocuse offers a three course prix fixe menu for $59 – or about the price of a Berkshire pork chop at Westchester’s better eateries. The reason they can do this is because the restaurant is entirely run by CIA students – under the guidance of their faculty supervisors. This is part of the enjoyment at the CIA. We always love chatting with the servers and hosts about “school” and it’s amazing to see how they outperform even the best of Westchester’s fine dining restaurants. Both in the kitchen and out.

Our waiter recommended The “Paul Bocuse” Steak Tartar and The “Bocus” Mezzo for starters but the Parsley Root and Fennel Soup jumped off the page for us on an unseasonably cool early October night. The parsley root and fennel married well and was served with Crème Fraiche Foam and Parsley oil, with bacon relish and micro-diced Lady apple hiding underneath the foam. Always lots of little surprises at the CIA and this one was the most talked about dish on the drive home. Delicious and gorgeous. Our other starter was the Escargots of Burgundy with parsley, garlic and shallot butter. I always order escargots in a French restaurant and here served sizzling in their shells, they did not disappoint. Our only regret was that we didn’t have a third, which would have been the Oysters Gratenées with spinach, bacon, parmesan and panko.

For some reason, both my wife and I were obsessed with the Pork Tenderloin Schnitzel with sweet and sour peaches, soubise, and bok choy. But my wife always has to order the duck, like I have to order the escargots. You can see for yourself how gorgeous the Maple Leaf duck breast ($5 upcharge) was, served with squash purée, Brussels, baby beets, baby turnips, and a Poivrade sauce. I took our waiter’s recommendation for the Iliada Poached Halibut, which I usually prefer pan seared. However, the vidalia onion stew on top was a crusty addition so I didn’t miss the sear and must admit that poaching is really the way to go with Halibut. The little bowl of spinach-dill pilaf on the side, I’m just flat out stealing for our next dinner party or holiday meal. Yum.

Don’t miss the dessert

Begging your forgiveness, we passed on the Fondant Au Chocolat, molten chocolate, burnt orange ice cream, fleur de sel, milk ja. (We’ll look forward to that the next time.) Nonetheless, it being autumn my wife went for the Apple Tatin, caramelized almond puff pastry, vanilla bean ice cream, shiso sauce – and had no regrets. Again, I went for the waiter’s recommendation, the Gateaux Carotte (an evening special) and deconstructed or otherwise it was the most amazing carrot cake ever. It was served over a passion fruit sauce that lit up the palette with a tart, acidic dimension one doesn’t associate with carrot cake. It also was served with a Speculus cookie that I loved and that had a slight hint of ginger and warm fall spices. But, the real prize was the coconut ice cream that was hidden in a white chocolate and coconut truffle shell. That was really good.

Everybody should go to Bocuse at least once, but if you can’t get the perfect reservation, just go to American Bounty. And circle back with Bocuse next time. They really are both exquisite.

Bocuse is located at 1946 Campus Drive, Hyde Park; 845-451-1012.

It is open Tuesday through Saturday for lunch from 11:30 to 1pm and dinner from 6 – 8:30pm.