Worth the trip? Manhattan’s Rye House come to Port Chester

Here’s another Manhattan transport that has come to Westchester and just may be worth the trip for dedicated foodies (and quaffers) in Armonk, Bedford and Chappaqua. Rye House NYC owners Michael Jannetta and Robert Lombardi teamed up with Dan Forrester, a local real estate executive, to bring their hit American craft bistro and bar in Manhattan’s Flatiron district to Port Chester in mid-January. Rye House Port Chester specializes in a regional and globally influenced approach to American cuisine with an expansive offering of American small batch whiskies, spirits, craft beer and wine in an upscale but casual setting.

The Press

Time Out magazine gave Rye House NYC a four star rating (out of 5) when it opened in 2010, calling it a “serious bar” serving “classic American eats” and offering a selection of some 50 bourbons and ryes, including rare bottles from George T. Staff and Pappy Van Winkle.” It was a critic’s choice at New York Magazine who called their bartenders “liquor nerds” who are “comfortable recommending an organic mocha stout one second and discussing a whiskey from 1962 the next.”

“One bourbon, One scotch, One beer” … and some nice wines

All this talk about spirits made us think about that old George Thorogood song so, in that spirit, we asked our waiter for recommendations for “one bourbon, one scotch, one beer.” His favorites are the Cyrus Noble Small Batch bourbon from California that he assured us was smooth and aged to perfection; the Hibiki, a 17 year old scotch from Japan that has a cooling after taste devoid of the usual peat/moss flavor, and the Two Handed Triple IPA from Wisconsin. But we settled into the relatively short but spot on wine list where we found a subtle Oregon Pinot, a nice Merlot from Columbia Valley and the Smith and Hook Cabernet from California’s Central Coast that was light on its feet.

A specialized cocktail menu, developed with Rye House NYC, features cocktails such as The 17th Street Sazerac with Templeton Rye, Marie Duffau Bas Armagnac, Demerara, Peychaud & Angostura Bitters and an Absinthe wash, and the North Main Melting Pot with a whiskey blend of Royal Thistle Blended Scotch, Old Overholt Rye and Four Yellow Bourbon, Lemon, Velvet Falernum, Orgeat, Absinthe and Angostura Bitters. Just saying.

Not just for gentleman quaffers

Foodies expecting a standard menu of uninspired burgers and soggy fries, often synonymous with “craft bistro” food, will be delighted to know that the Rye House is not just for gentleman quaffers. Executive Chef Anne McKinney’s menu sports a Kale Salad with roasted butternut squash, almonds, apples, sherry vinaigrette and fried shallots; a Thai-style Sticky Rice, with green peas, carrots, scallions and topped with a Hudson Valley ginger-glazed duck breast, and a Truffle Grilled Cheese with goat, gouda and fontina cheeses, arugula, mushroom and taro root. The signature sandwich is the Cuban with ham, pulled pork, pickles, gruyere, aioli mustard and mixed greens.

When we were there

We passed over the White Truffle Popcorn with Parmigiano-Reggiano and herbs for the Shrimp Fritters with Tabasco aioli and then went right for the very affordably priced large plates. We liked the Drunken Mussels cooked with onions; garlic, Allagash White and hand cut fries. Amazing fries, of course. But we came for the Broad Leaf Venison Stew with celery root and creamy mashed Yukon Gold potatoes topped with crispy frizzled onion. And we were not disappointed. It was savory, with a surprisingly light sauce and a steal at just $20. Regrets that we could not try the Pan Seared Striped Bass in an aged apple cider reduction. And the Buttermilk Fried Chicken and Shrimp and Grits were both highly recommended. We finished up with the Devil’s Food Cake with marshmallow drizzle and Longacres vanilla ice cream that cut the sweetness of the icing. Mm, just like mom used to make.

Testosterone relief

The extensive spirits theme (over 200 bottles divided by flavors like “tobacco and leather” or “flowers and fruit”) put us on testosterone alert but we were pleasantly surprised with the well selected wine list and the menu that more than transcended hungry man gamer grub. The well appointed room from acclaimed designer John Nyomarkay, who also designed Rye House NYC, that made ample use of reclaimed American woods (from the white oak floors to the ceiling grid work of beams connected with 150 year-old distressed hemlock) finished with a neutral palette of warm olives and steel blues that offered a modern, contemporary feel. You don’t need to have your bookie on speed dial to dine at the Rye House. In fact, the crowd was overwhelmingly couples, mixed groups and families as the Rye House is kid friendly.

Worth the trip?

Armonk, Bedford and Chappaqua foodies looking for a change of pace and a relaxed well-considered bistro dinner that won’t break the bank will find the Rye House worth the trip. Add 10 points if you want to tie in a meal with a movie at the AMC Loews multiplex or a lunch after a Costco shop for non-perishables. Dad will like the concept for his birthday or Father’s Day. And it’s a no-brainer if you’re going to the Capitol Theatre for Phil Lesh’s 75^th birthday celebration (3/15-19), Diana Krall (3/12) or The Moody Blues on March 20 and 21. (Check our Winter Music Guide for more reasons to visit the Rye House in Port Chester.)

(Rye House Port Chester, 126 North Main St., 914-481-8771; www.ryehousepc.com)

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